Waves are one of the most enjoyable features of the the ocean. You can ride them, jump over them, dive under them, simply watch then gently roll in, or gasp as they crash and roar during a big swell.
Different conditions affect waves and it’s important to understand how the waves work, what types of waves may be present when you visit, and how you can deal with them to reduce the potential for injury.
- Waves are generated by winds blowing across the ocean surface.
- Waves always break in generally shallow water.
- Observe and follow all safety warnings and signage.
- If in doubt, don’t go out.
So what are the waves?
Waves are a disturbance of the ocean surface generally caused by the wind, though they can sometimes be caused by undersea earthquakes and seismic events.
If you were to look at a wave from the side, then you can see lots of different features of the waves like the wavelength and wave height.